Electirc Nail Files : Are They Safe?

I have been a nail tech for 16 years and I've used a nail drill for about 14 of those 16 years. So I guess you can say that I am an advanced operator of this tool.

An electric file or e-file is just that...a tool. In my world this "tool" is imperative for me to use in order to deliver the best possible experience and end result for my customer.

For me to not use this tool is like a carpenter not using a nail gun and hand-pounding nails with a hammer...very time consuming and not very precise, in my opinion.

In the fast-paced world we currently live in, time is a very valuable commodity. Customers who desire artificial nail enhancements really don't have the time to sit for two hours every other week in order to maintain their enhancements.

This is why those "other" shops have grown so much in recent years. They provide a quick service at an affordable cost. However, the saying "you get what you pay for" is relevant in these next paragraghs.

Those "other" shops have given the e-files a bad reputation. Any tool that is improperly used can be harmful.

Going back to the carpenter and his nail gun... if the carpenter is moving too quickly and/or not paying attention and taking for granted his ability to use this tool, he can inevitably miss his target and...oops, nail goes into his finger and not the intended piece of wood. Get what I'm trying to say here?

An e-file can be a safe, efficient tool when the operator who is using it is properly trained and NEVER takes for granted their ability. For instance in my case, I've been using a drill for many, many years and can easily think I'm a pro and take for granted my ability to use such a tool. You know what happens when we take things (or people) for granted? Yep you guessed it, it's never good.

With my many years of experience, it's still very crucial for the success of my ability to constantly keep myself educated on new developments and techniques. We must continue to learn in order to grow.

OK , going back to the "you get what you pay for" statement. Those "other" shops pride themselves on giving you a quick, in-and-out experience and they spare no expense to them. It's alledged that a lot of the operators in those shops are not even licensed nail technicians...scary. They don't care about your well being, just the money you're going to hand them at the end of the service...scarier. When you express any concern toward them about the service they're providing you, in most cases, they don't care and blow you off like you're stupid for wanting a shorter length...of course, because they'll charge you MORE for the talons you really want, right?

They use products with ingredients that are illegal and that's why you never see original packaging of the products they use...it's a secret, "shhh...don't let this idiot know that this product I'm using can potentially harm them...might cause infection, respitory illness, or even an allergic reation...but hey, the product's cheap to manufacture, which means cheap prices for the idiot getting the service...who cares if I'm drilling out their natural nail...we're all gonna die eventually...let's just speed up the process for these folks and make us richer in the end!"...scariest!!!!!

For a funny imitation of an "Asian nail shop experience", click this link.

OK that might've been a harsh portrayal but you get the point. I can write a whole other blog on the deadliest lengths those "other" shops go to in order to make money off you and hurt you in the end. But that's for another time...

Lets keep focus...

Now is the Q & A of e-files you've been waiting for: (the following information was provided by Nails magazine for the nail professional and Vicki Peters , vice president of Vicki Peters Signature Series for Kupa Inc, the manufacturer of the one and only drill I use).

Q: Do electric files damage nails?

A: In the hands of an untrained technician, an electric file can be damaging to nails. With the proper training and responsible use, an electric file is safe to use on nails.

Q: Do electric files burn the natural nail?

A: Electric files do not burn the nail. A tech controls the machine and determines how much pressure is applied to the surface of the nail. The rule for heat is: Pressure causes friction, friction causes heat. If pressure is not applied to the surface of the nail, the nail will not get hot. If the drill bit is fresh, less pressure is needed. Constant movement and light pressure is the best technique for minimizing heat with all types of bits. Sometimes heat from pressure can be caused by the client’s tense finger pressing up against the bit as the technician is working. Taking the time to explain the theory of pressure and friction to clients will work to relax their fingers to avoid causing discomfort to their nails.

Q: What’s a ring of fire?

A: A ring of fire is created when the surface of the natural nail is filed too aggressively with a file or electric file. Red, painful patches develop on the nail plate. Electric file users sometimes cause rings of fire when improperly using a barrel bit at the cuticle area. When used at an angle in the cuticle area, the barrel bit’s edge cuts into the natural nail.

Q: Can you use an electric file on the natural nail?

A: Yes but only with synthetic, rubberized soft drill bits that are made specifically for use on the natural nail. They can safely prep the natural nail, remove excess cuticle from the nail plate, and buff the nails, and even remove ridges.

These are just a few of the most popular concerns the general public has on this topic. I hope this answered any of your concerns regarding the e-file.

Now back to the "you get what you pay for" statement. In most cases, when you buy cheap, cheap is what you get. I'm employed by a salon that is anything but cheap. A high-end salon and spa that provides the best of the best in services and products. Our prices are not cheap however our service ranks high on our standards of performance.

However time is money to most of us, so why not get an exceptional nail enhancement service by a professional you can trust to give you a quick service that does not skimp out on it's quality?

Michelle Moody is a licensed nail technician at Spa Bleu in West Dundee and South Barrington, Illinois.

Nail Disorders: What Are They & What Do They Mean?

As a nail tech, I've seen ALL kinds of different nail disorders, so as an informational tool for you (and me, it's been awhile since nail school) the following is a list of the most commons types of nail disorders and photos giving examples of how each may look like.

The most common question I get asked is "what causes theses ridges in my nails"? I'm always curious as to how long their nails have been in such state and usually it almost always was not a very long time.

This may or may not come as a surprise to you but the condition of your nails is a tell-tale sign of how healthy you are. Ever wonder why you had to take off your nail polish before any major surgical procedure? That's because the docs can monitor (among others ways) the condition of your body's circulation.

This is true for certain types of health issues you may be experiencing - your nails shall not lie.

Now, back to the "ridges" issue...

Ridges can signify a possible infection such as the flu. Horizontal ridges such as Beau's Lines are transverse depressions that occurs when growth at the nail root (matrix) is interrupted by any severe acute illness e.g. heart attack, measles, pneumonia, or fever. These lines emerge from under the nail folds weeks after acquiring such an illness:





Another horizontal ridge disorder is referred to as Mee's Lines. Again, transverse white lines that run across the nail, following the shape of the nail moon. Uncommon. Usually occurring after an acute or severe illness.






Vertical ridges may simply indicate a kidney disorder (kidney failure); associated with aging; iron deficiency (Anemia). May also indicate a tendency to develop arthritis.





Pitting

Pitting are small pits or depressions. Most common nail problem seen in 25- 50 % of people with psoriasis.






Spoon

Soft nails that look scooped out. Depression is usually large enough to hold a drop of liquid. Often indicates iron deficiency such as anemia.

Onycholysis (nail fungus)

This is VERY common! Don't get this confused with nail mold, a nail fungus looks white and milky, not green. Onycholysis is the lifting of the nail from the nail bed. Most common causes are: trauma, psoriasis, drug reactions, bacterial/fungal infection, contact dermatitis from using nail hardeners, thyroid disease, iron deficiency anemia or syphilis.

Onychauxis (thickened nails)

Thickened nails can be a result of a variety of illnesses or diseases such as: diabetes, psoriasis, nail fungus, heart conditions or peripheral vascular disease...just to name a few.

Nail discoloration, in which the nails appear white, yellow, or greenish, can result from different infections and conditions of the skin. In about 50% of cases, discolored nails are a result of infections with common fungi that can be found in the air, dust, and soil.

These are just a handful of nail disorders and their common causes... hope this clarifies any grey areas you may have had regarding any "skeptical" nail issue you may be experiencing or have experienced. Or if you're like me, this was simlpy an educational tool...and now you can say you "learned something new today".

So what Is AVEDA?

Until recently, I've only heard of Aveda. Then December '08, I applied for a position at an Aveda salon.

I got a call for an interview the very next day! Hired the next week. It was ok that I had NO clue about what Aveda was, it's products, it's mission, it's purpose...but my new boss assured me that I would be given classes that would give me all the knowledge I would need.

So what is Aveda? Aveda(a-vay-da) is Sanskrit for "all knowledge." It is the Art and Science of Pure Flower and Plant Essences, and was founded in 1978 with the goal of providing beauty industry professionals with high performance, botanically based products that would be better for service providers and their guests, as well as for the planet.

What does that mean? Naturally derived products from hair care, to skin care, and make-up. Aveda only uses plant and flower extracts for the production of all their products. Also, they use plantations throughout the world that are specific to each ingredient used in their products. For example, Cistus from Spain. Cistus ladaniferus, jara in Spanish, is a plant of survival, renewal and rebirth. The Cistus plant flowers once a year, opening a wrinkled, white, five-petaled blossom to the late winter sun for a few short days.

Other ingredients Aveda migrates are Argan from Morocco; Sandalwood; South African Rose Geranium; Bulgarian Rosa and Lavender...just to name a few.

Aveda loves the Earth so much and the need to reduce our environmental footprint in every package they develop. They achieve this by minimizing their packaging, maximizing the use
of post-consumer recycled materials, using materials that can be and are recyclable, and by designing their packaging so that the individual parts can be separated for recycling.

Also tying in with the "save the environment" theme, Aveda has integrated wind energy sources that generates enough wind energy to offset 100% of the electricity used by their primary manufacturing, distribution and headquarters facility in Minnesota, USA.

Wow! So since 1978 Aveda has been in the forefront of natural ingredients used in their products and helping save the Earth by their recyclable packaging and natural resources of energy to produce their product. Oh, did I mention that Aveda also helps support campaigns for Earth Month and Breast Cancer Awareness, donating proceeds of the products that are sold during such campaigns?

So, I am excited to be a part the mission at Aveda and at Spa Bleu - I work there now and I love it! Spa Bleu is in total alignment with Aveda's purpose and mission.

Spa Bleu An Aveda Concept Salon and Spa
South Barrington, IL 847.783.0703
West Dundee, IL 847.426.3656

Must Have Manicures This Season

Step out of the box with these two trends in talons:

The Moon Manicure
Step 1. Start with an opaque white lacquer (try Sally Hansen Insta-Dri Nail color in Whirlwind White ) and apply one coat over the entire nail and wait for it to completely dry.

Step 2. Using a semicircular French-manicure stencil sticker (try Orly French Manicure Tip Guides), block off the bottom third of your nail.

Step 3. Paint two coats of black (try Essie nail polish in Licorice) from the stencil to the tip of the nail. Once it dries, peel off the sticker and finish with a shine-enhancing top coat over the entire nail.

The Ombre Manicure
Subtle shade-shifting gives hands a cool and pretty effect. The best part? All you need are two shades to create your own custom ombre sensation.
Step 1. What you'll need: a deep purple polish (try OPI nail lacquer in Give Me Moor), a creamy white polish (like OPI nail lacquer in Alpine Snow), five clean pots (or disposable plates), and toothpicks to mix.

Step 2. Pour out four dime-size blobs of the dark purple, and add small increments of white to each one, creating a gradation of hues.

Step 3. Beginning with the original shade on your pinkie, paint each nail a different color.

Have fun with it and try different colors and graduate them also.

Socks With Sandals?

I'm NOT referring to your grandma and her Birkenstocks either. Yes it's true, socks and sandals are allowed this season....and not too many rules apply. Switch it up and get original, just check out some of these styles:

...but please no socks and flip-flops.

Strong Shoulders

Reincarnating the 80's trend of "shoulder pads", this Fall has us seeing BIG again. Bigger, broader shoulders are in and we're not talking about men.

As expected, fashion trends inevitability return but with a new flare. The shoulders we're seeing on the runway are more sophisticated with ruffles, satin trim and even leather-clad.

These pieces can be paired with another hot trend, skinny pants - also seen in the same textures.

"No-Chip" Manicure Revolution

OK, so I'm not the average consumer complaining that my manicure doesn't last any longer than five days (if I'm lucky)...I'm a licensed nail technician, therefore I'm real lucky if I can get my polish to look decent for ONE DAY!

Constantly having my hands and nails succumb to the hazards of my profession ie: acetone, gels, acrylics, water, etc...it's no wonder why I don't polish my nails AT ALL. So if there was a miracle polish that never chipped, it would be an answer to my prayers...OK, I really didn't pray for a miracle, no-chip polish but you get my point.

Then a co-worker of mine introduced me to the 'no-chip" manicure, she had recently received one and was raving about it. Next thing I know, my boss has a class scheduled for all nail techs to learn this new concept. I was ecstatic! I love learning new techniques and we all need to learn to grow, right?

Here it goes: OPI has a new "soak-off gel lacquer" in, currently, 26 of their hottest and most popular shades...Lincoln Park After Dark, Russian Navy (my personal fav) I'm Not Really A Waitress, Bubble Bath, Pompeii Purple and so on... So when you apply polish there's a base coat, two coats of color, followed by your top coat - same concept here except each layer is cured by an ultraviolet light, which forms a lasting bond with the nail that won’t chip. Plus, “they can actually help some women grow their nails, by providing a protective cover,” says Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, cofounder of O.P.I....I love Suzi :-)

It's been a week since my "no-chip" manicure (guess what color I chose first) and besides outgrowth at the cuticle, it looks just as fresh as if I just walked out of the salon. Now you're wondering about removal, right? Well, that's a simple and painless process too: just a light filing of the top layer, then a soak in acetone for 15 minutes and voilà, you're ready to pick out a new shade!

One definition of revolution means a fundamental change in the way of thinking about or visualizing something...it's time we "revolutionize" our way of thinking, of what a traditional manicure should be...toss out the notion that it can only last a few days, there's a new Mayor in town and her term is indefinite...

...Welcome to no-chip happiness, Ladies!